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IMPORTANT THINGS ABOUT YOUR NEW BOARD
For Bodyboarding the board should be as close to the right size for you as possible. Boards that are too long will push water and will be much harder to control. Boards that are too small will lack flotation so are harder to catch waves on. |
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LENGTH
When choosing the right board stand it in front of you, the nose should come somewhere between the top of your hip to you navel (tummy button). If you are a heavier rider or surf in weaker waves it is important to keep flotation high on your agenda. Don't make the common mistake of going longer in a board to get floatation, add buoyancy by choosing a wider template with a slightly wider tail and perhaps a slightly thicker core too. (pic of measuring board to navel)
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WIDEPOINT
Boards with the wide point towards the middle work very well in most conditions, both for prone (lying) and drop knee (semi standing). The further up the board the wide point is, the more directional the board will become. This works better in bigger waves, where your weight is pulled a little further up the board for speed.
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FLAT
Make sure the board is flat. Hold the board on its edge and look down its rail; it should be nice and flat. Boards with excess rocker are harder to catch waves on; they push water and are therefore slower. When you need rocker (for turns) you should be able to bend it into the board whilst riding. (pic showing flat board)
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FLEX & RECOIL = PROJECTION
Flex & recoil = projection = speed, this is the magic that really makes your board work.
Having the right flex depends on the materials used and the climate. Stiffer boards work better in bigger waves, clean surf and warmer waters, they tend be harder to control in choppy conditions. I liken a stiff board to be like driving a car with no suspension down a rough track, it’ll be slower and a lot harder to control. Having good flex/recoil will fire you through turns, spins, rolls and airs. |
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Even the simple act of catching a wave is easier on a board with the right flex. Check the flex by placing the tail on the floor and placing your palm on the deck give the board a flex. Turn the board around and do the same this time with your palm on the slick, if the board bends and springs back without too much effort then you’re onto a good board. Remember that all boards tend to become a little more flexible with time.
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CONSTRUCTION
Many people ask us....what is the difference between a £30 board and a £150 board? Basically it will come down to strength, build quality and performance. All of our boards here will have the best performance for their price but before you buy we will explain a little more about what is inside your new board. Starting from the cheapest, let’s look at the options.... |
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This is a great little vid showing how your new board is constructed. Shown here by top shaper Dan Sivess:
PRIDE TECHNOLOGY // Episode 2 // Design Process from dolly on Vimeo. |
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EPS CORE (Expanded Polystyrene)
Boards made using this core material come in many shapes and sizes. If you get a well designed EPS board you'll be surprised by the performance. However most are not up to standard, poorly laminated and badly shaped. Look for a thicker core for strength (around 50-55mm thick), also a more dense deck and rail materials will add valuable strength. We choose the very best EPS boards available, so if your budget doesn't stretch to a PE core then we'll still get you on a great board. Never pay over £50 for an EPS board.
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PE CORE
The next core up is PE (Polyethylene). Now a lot of people think just because it’s a PE core then it’s better than EPS, this is not always the case. The density and quality of the PE core is what makes all the difference. Dow makes the best PE used in bodyboards. Core density should be 2.2lb pcf (Pounds per cubic foot) and above, this is the density of the foam per square foot. I have seen 1.8PE foam with 3 stringers sell for £80. The board is weaker than many at £40. It is good to get sound advice when buying a PE board.
A good PE core board does work great here in the colder waters of the UK. The best combination for performance is 2.2 – 2.4lb PE core, 8lb PE deck skin, single stringer (rod inside for extra strength and recoil). PE core boards will come in a choice of HDPE slick bottom (High density polyethylene) or surlyn slick (made by DuPont) HDPE. HDPE features on all boards under £90. This material is fine but when it creases it creases deep, which will permanently affect the flex of the board. Surlyn is the best slick skin that is available. It has elasticity which helps the board recoil to its original shape after flexing; it tends not to crease as deep as HDPE either. Some boards add a mesh under the slick for a bit of extra strength too. |
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3D CORE
3D core is utilising the two most popular core materials, PE and PP in a sandwich construction. The idea is to give you a board that will have a flex half way between the two which is a bit more suited to cooler conditions. Good for riders who tend to be heavy in the way they ride or for people looking for a board that is a bit more of an all rounder. i.e. UK use and travel.
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PP CORE
The most expensive core and the core of choice for warmer, hotter climates is PP (Polypropylene). Polypropylene is lightweight and waterproof. A great core but often too stiff here in the UK, esp in the winter.
If you are considering a PP board look for 1.9 PCF core. 8Lb PE deck, Surlyn slick. This will give you all the performance you will need for warmer waters and climate.
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TAIL DESIGN
The shape of the tail will affect how the board will track in the wave and is nearly always in some contact with the wave. There are two main designs. |
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CRESCENT TAIL
Crescent tail boards tend to grip the wave nicely thus making them very user-friendly for prone and drop knee riding; the smaller the tail peg and deeper the tail design, the more the board will grip the wave. Slightly bigger tail pegs and a more shallow tail design will enable the tail to release more easily for spins and sliding manoeuvres. A tail design around 17.5 inches wide is a great all round width. |
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BAT TAIL
The BAT TAIL is good tail of choice for weaker surf or unpredictable conditions. By increasing the flotation over the rear of the board, the bat tail can give more speed but tends to give the board a little looser feel, especially at higher speed. Most of our riding tends to be towards the back of the board so the bat tail is a good option for heavier rider & those looking for a performance in smaller conditions.
For a good all round 50/50 drop knee/prone board go for the crescent tail. If you want one for mostly prone and smaller conditions then go for the bat, just make sure it’s not too extreme a design!
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THE NOSE
Nobody likes a big nose! Well that’s not strictly true, a wider nose is fine in bigger waves but for most conditions a nose approx 11.5" work just fine for prone or drop knee. Smaller noses tend to make the board looser and less stable for prone turns, better for drop knee rider who want to pull hard turns & snappy moves!
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| OTHER IMPORTANT FEATURES |
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RAILS
The rails are the side edges of the board. There are two parts, the rail which is the lower proportion of the edge and the chine which is the part that wraps around onto the deck. The rail, chine proportions are often referred in percentages like 60/40 or 50/50. Nowadays the better companies use a 55/45 rail configuration. This means 55% rail to 45% chine, great for most type of waves and riding style.
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CHANNELS
Channels are small fluted groves running up from the tail on the slick side of the board. These tend to be positioned close to the edge. Channels are designed to give you a little more grip/ control in the face of the wave and help prevent side slipping. These days most channels are about the same depth and are designed to give a extra while will still enabling easy release for spins and other manoeuvres; the deeper the channel the more grip you will get.
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STRINGER or ROD
Stringers are often fitted inside boards to give extra strength; they can also help the board spring back to its original shape. Too many stringers can make the board to stiff. Normally one is enough if the core is strong. The better stringers are made from carbon fibre and taper throughout their length. This gives a bit more flex towards the top half of the board where you need more.
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SURLYN SLICK
Surlyn made by DuPont is still regarded as the very best slick skin available. This slick has elasticity which helps enhance your board ability to bend and spring back to its original shape. Surlyn slick material is three times as expensive as HDPE but worth the investment for the added performance and life you get from the board.
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MESH
In some boards a layer of mesh is laminated under the slick for a bit more extra strength. This mesh also helps to enhance the recoil of the board.
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DOUBLE RAILS
Double rails mean that there are two layers of foam running down the edge of the board. The rail can be stiffened up more by adding an extra layer of foam, this helps to give the board valuable strength and a bit more speed.
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NOSE & TAIL BUMPERS
Bumpers are extra layers of foam attached under the nose and tail that help prevent these areas from de-laminating. The corners of a board take a lot of punishment so having this extra protection is great feature that will make your board last a lot longer.
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NOSE BULBS
Bulbs are small indentations that are scooped out from the corners of the nose on the slick side. The idea is to give you more grip and a better feel for a board. Well worth having.
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8LB PE OPEN CELL DECK SKIN
Still regarded as the best deck material as it is less likely to impair the boards ability to flex & recoil. It has a softer, slightly rough feel to it unlike its alternative crosslink deck skin which has a stiffer smooth feel. (pic of deck skin)
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SUMMARY
Well, that gives you a small idea of what the board should look & feel like. Board design is a complicated subject so for more in depth advice on the correct board for you
Call on our hotline 01209 844806 (International +44 1209 844806) or drop into the shop |
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